The “Garden Isle”

Kaua’i is the oldest island on the Hawaiian chain (5.1 million years old to be exact) and is also known as the “Garden Isle”. As you can see in the picture above, that name has been rightfully earned. Kaua’i not only has lush greenery, but also sandy beaches, its own mini Grand Canyon, and scenic hikes. Only about 10% of the island is accessible by car and a majority of Kauai’s residents live along the coastline. This allows most of the island’s interior to remain an untouched paradise. From helicopter tours and mountain float tubing to hiking and strolling on a sandy beach, Kaua’i has a little of something for both adventure seekers and those looking to relax. Another thing that Kaua’i has…is a plethora of wild chickens (also known as wild moa). They can be found everywhere and it is estimated that there are about 450,000 of them scattered throughout the island (versus the human population of about 74,000). I loved seeing them during our trip and sometimes they would pop up in the most random places.

The main thing about Kaua’i that appealed to me (besides the chickens) was the surprising lack of tourists that go there compared to other Hawaiian Islands (I’m not complaining. I’m not a huge fan of crowds). My sister and I also decided to visit this beautiful island in early December, so it was WAY less crowded than it gets in the summer season. We spent seven full days on the island hiking, eating local foods, and exploring. While visiting Kaua’i, these places are definitely worth checking out:

• Waimea Canyon
• Sleeping Giant (Nounou Mountain)
• Makaleha Falls
• Nā Pali Coast
• Kauapea Beach
• Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail (Shipwreck Beach to Gillin’s Beach)
• Poipu Beach
• Spouting Horn

But first….Let’s talk about where to stay, how to get around, and some of our favorite spots that we ate at.

Where to Stay & How to Get Around

Personally, I think that the best area to stay at on the island is on the eastern side. Most of the places that you are probably going to see are on the eastern and southern side of the island. Staying on the east side gives you access to both the north and south sides of the island without having to drive very far (about 30 minutes each way). My sister and I stayed at The ISO. It was reasonably priced and a short drive from many restaurants. There are many hotels on the eastern side of the island that are similarly priced.

I highly recommend getting a rental car while you are on Kaua’i. Public transportation is extremely limited on Kaua’i and a lot of the places that you are going to want to see aren’t connected to public transportation. Plus, it is nice having the freedom to drive wherever you want on the island whenever you want. There are many different rental car companies that you can use, but we went with Turo . I have used Turo on several trips and have never had any issues. You can usually find a rental car for hundreds of dollars cheaper on Turo compared to most car rental companies.

Our Favorite Places to Eat

Java Kai was our go to breakfast place and we ate there every single morning. I always thought avocado toast was overrated and I had never had it before, but I wanted to try it out since I was on vacation. I had absolutely no regrets and LOVED it. I mean, just look at how beautiful it is. Have you ever seen flowers on avocado toast? Java Kai had coffee, smoothies, pastries, and so much more. I highly recommend them if you are staying on the eastern side of the island.

The Musubi Truck has the best poke bowls I’ve ever had in my life, hands down. I crave their poke bowls to this day and have even tried to replicate it at home. We loved this food truck so much that we ate here about three times. It was the perfect place to eat after a day at the beach or a hike through the jungle. There is also a bubble tea truck right out front where you can grab a refreshing beverage.

I am not a huge coffee person and this technically isn’t considered food, but it is worth checking out the Kaua’i Coffee Company. They are the home of the largest coffee farm in the U.S. You can grab a cup of their famous coffee from the cafe and take yourself on their self guided tour around the property. If you’re lucky, you might even see a few stray cats.

waimea

Waimea Canyon – The Grand Canyon of the Pacific

Waimea Canyon is 14 miles long, 1 mile wide, and over 3,600 feet deep. The road winding up to the top of the canyon is full of hiking trails and lookout points. We spent two days here, but you can see most of the highlights in one day. You will not have cell service in a majority of the canyon, so make sure you download a map or bring a physical one with you.

This small waterfall is one of the first things that you will see driving up the canyon. It is so small in fact, that my sister is almost the same height as it. This area is surrounded by views of the base of Waimea Canyon and the south western coast of Kaua’i.

As you make your way further up the canyon, you will be able to see into Waimea Canyon on your right-hand side. The canyon is breathtaking and colorful. The pictures that I took on my phone don’t do it justice at all. There are many places to stop as you travel up the road, although parking at these spots is extremely limited. Waimea Canyon Lookout is an official lookout point that has a large parking lot.

Waimea Canyon Trail

This is the only trail that we did in the canyon. It is about 3.7 miles and is moderately difficult. The trail drops 1,400ft within the first mile. If you are only able to do one hike in this area I highly recommend this one because it gives you some of the best views into the canyon.

The trail ends at Mini Falls. There is another small waterfall behind this one that is a short walk to the left of it. It is a steep climb down to these falls, so make sure you have good traction on your shoes and take it slow or use hiking poles.

Kokee Lodge is the only restaurant located in the canyon. It is right past the Waimea Canyon Trailhead. The restaurant is pretty tasty with a good variety of food options. The parking lot was full of chickens both times we ate there. It was hilarious watching people try to eat near them because they would immediately be surrounded by a flock of chickens trying to steal their food.

The Top of Waimea Canyon

Once you reach the top of Waimea Canyon, you can see parts of the Nā Pali Coast on the northern side of the island. There are a few hikes that take you out onto these ridges, but we decided to save time (and energy) and view them from the lookouts instead. The road ends at Pu’u O Kila Lookout, but you can continue on Pihea Vista Trail to other lookouts and trails.

sleeping-giant

Sleeping Giant (Nounou Mountain)

The Sleeping Giant (also known as Nounou Mountain) is named so because, well, it literally looks like a sleeping giant. When looking at the giant from the western and eastern sides, the “head” can be found facing the south, while the “feet” are pointing north. The giant can be accessed from both the eastern and western side. We chose to hike the eastern trail because was closest to our hotel. The eastern trail is the harder of the two and has more elevation gain. It is 3.2 miles total, has switchbacks, and some rock scrambling at the end. The western trail is about 2 miles and is surrounded by large trees at the beginning of the trail. Even though we chose the “harder” side, this was one of our favorite trails on Kaua’i. Regardless of which side you choose, they both end up at the same summit. You can also expect to get muddy on either trail if it has rained recently.

When you make your way up the switchbacks you are greeted by views from all sides. I loved being surrounded by a plethora of green vegetation, even though I wasn’t sure what kind of plants they were.

Once you reach the bench and shelter, you know that you are almost to the summit. This was the perfect spot to talk to our new chicken friend and take a break.

The climb up to the summit isn’t for the faint of heart. If you are scared of heights, proceed with caution. To the left is a narrow trail out to a ridge and to the right is a wider trail that leads to the final summit view. I did not even attempt to go to the left as this side had drop offs straight down the cliff (and I’m terrified of heights). Once you reach the summit you are rewarded with near 360 degree views of the area.

makaleha

Makaleha Falls

The hike out to this waterfall is more of an adventure than it is a hike. The trail provides you with a true jungle experience. It was our favorite trail on the island and the funnest trail we’ve both ever done. On this 2.6 mile journey, you’ll spend a majority of your time bushwhacking and making sure that you’re not going off trail. There are several river crossings, so make sure that you bring water shoes. It’s extremely muddy, so it’s likely that you won’t take off your water shoes at all. I kept mine on the entire hike.

Go slow and take your time. Enjoy the tiny waterfalls and thriving jungle scenery. Pay attention to where other footprints are in the mud and don’t walk places where it doesn’t look like a trail (especially if you are attempting to climb up the canyon wall at any point like we tried to). It’s very easy to get turned around. My sister and I had to retrace our steps about three times. If you go slow and watch where you’re stepping, you’ll be fine! 

There’s a point near the end of the trail where the canyon splits in two and the river forks off to either side. Makaleha Falls is on your right-hand side. Cross the river one last time and make your way to the canyon on the right. All of your hard work has paid off and the waterfall is at the end. 

na-pali

Nā Pali Coast

Nā Pali Coast is located on the northern side of the island. This side of the island has jaw dropping scenery that is different from the rest of the island. There are roads and towns nestled beneath towering mountains. A plethora of beaches are scattered across the coastline. This area is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. 

Ha’ena Beach

This beach is surrounded by cliffs and mountains. Maniniholo Dry Cave is located just across the parking lot. I thought that this cave was interesting because it’s opening is large slit at the base of a cliff that makes you feel minuscule.

Kalalau Trail in Hā’ena State Park

This trail is probably the most popular one in Kaua’i. It stretches 11 miles along the breathtaking Nā Pali Coast. The trail is one of the only ways to access the coastline (the others being via helicopter tour or by boat). Most people only hike to Hanakāpī‘ai Beach (2 miles one way) and Hanakāpīʻai Falls (4 miles one way) because you need a camping permit to continue past Hanakāpī‘ai Valley. Continuing past the valley is recommended for experienced hikers only. You will need a reservation to get into Hā’ena State Park and to park your car. This website has more information: https://kalalautrail.com/day-use/?amp. We ended up using the shuttle and parking our car at the shuttle lot 30 minutes away from the trailhead. The shuttle ticket also includes entry into the park. You can make a shuttle reservation here.

This trail may only be a short 2 miles one way, but it is not easy. There are many inclines and declines that will leave you huffing and puffing. The trail is mostly rocky and can be slippery and muddy if it’s wet. After you make it up the first large incline you will be greeted with your first views of the coast. 

After your last decline, you’ve finally arrived at Hanakāpī‘ai Beach. You can choose to cross the river to access the entire beach, or you can go to the right and follow the river to a section of the beach. We chose not to cross because we didn’t bring our water shoes and didn’t feel like scaling over rocks to the other side. 

Kauapea

Kauapea Beach

Kauapea Beach (also known as Secret Beach) was our favorite beach that we saw. While it is “secret”, the trailhead can easily be found on Google Maps. The walk down to the beach is short, but steep. When you reach the beach you are greeted by a soft sandy beach filled with beautiful lava rock.

Our favorite part of the beach was a small “waterfall” on the left hand side of the beach. When you reach the beach the waterfall is a 15 minute walk to the west. At high tide the waves crash into the back side of a large group of lava rocks. When the waves hit the rock face just right, they are flung up into the air and rain down on the rock face where they trickle downward into a small waterfall. It is mesmerizing to watch because each wave creates its own unique waterfall depending on how big the wave is and what angle it hits the rock at.

heritage-trail

Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail (Shipwreck Beach to Gillin’s Beach)

This trail can be accessed either from Shipwreck Beach or past the CJM Country Stables above Gillin’s Beach. We spent part of a day exploring the Gillin’s Beach side of the trail and then came back a different day to hike the whole thing starting from the Shipwreck Beach side. The trail is about 2.5 miles one way and is fairly easy. On this trail you will be walking on lithified sand dunes a majority of the time. These solid dunes are created by the cementing of settling sand and volcanic sediment. There are several large drop offs into the ocean along their jagged edges, so watch where you are walking. I wouldn’t recommend this trail if you have young kids with you.

Shipwreck Beach

Shipwreck Beach seemed like a fairly popular spot for surfers (they are the small specks in the distance in the first picture below). The Heritage Trail starts on the far left-hand side of the beach. You just have to walk up a small hill and you’ll see the trail continue at the top.

This trail is full of diverse scenery. You’ll pass by many types of plants, roots sticking out of the sand, jagged cliffs, small beaches, a shrine, and even a golf course. If you’re lucky, you might see a seal or two along the cliffs. I love coastal hikes because consistently hearing the crashing of the waves against rock is extremely soothing.

Makauwahi Cave

Makauwahi Cave can be found near the end of the trail above Gillin’s Beach. There is a path from the beach leading to it. If you chose to start the trail from the CJM Country Stables side, you can also access the path to the cave from the same area where you park your car. On the way to the cave, there is a bridge that splits off the trail that leads to a turtle sanctuary. We got to the cave right as it was closing, so we didn’t get to walk around too much. It was fun to quickly crawl through the tunnel leading to the cave though.

Gillin’s Beach

This is one of my favorite beaches that we saw on the island. There is soft, golden sand, lava rocks, and reefs throughout the beach. At the entrance to the beach, there is a reef about 100 or so feet off shore that protects this area from large waves. You are able to walk out to the reef, but the waves at its edge can be powerful and there is a drop off, so I don’t recommend getting too close. As you walk north along the beach, the shore will become less protected and you will most likely see windsurfers in action. Rolling hills can also be seen in the distance. We walked about a mile along the beach before we decided to turn around.

poipu

Poipu Beach

Poipu Beach seemed like it was the most popular beach we went to on the island. It was definitely the most crowded. This was the only beach that we saw sea turtles on. When the sea turtles are laying on the beach, there will be conservationists around the turtles to protect them from crowds and answer any questions that you may have. Right behind the beach to the north is Puka Dog Hawaiian Style Hot Dogs. They serve delicious Hawaiian style hot dogs and homemade lemonade. We stopped here for a snack before going to the beach. I highly recommend ordering one exactly how it comes with no modifications, even if it the combination sounds weird. Trust me, they come the way they do for a reason.

spouting

Spouting Horn

This blowhole was created by waves eroding lava rocks on the coastline, making a narrow opening. Watching seawater shoot out of this blowhole was mesmerizing. We spent about 30 minutes sitting there staring at it. The surrounding area was breathtaking as well.

Note for the reader: I share these locations so that others can see beautiful places and enjoy nature as much as I do. Please be respectful of the outdoors and what condition it is in when you visit. Don’t go off trail, leave no trace, and pack out what you came in with.